Lendvai Levente, chef of VIRTU Restaurant, who has so far won diners over with his characterful and at times more masculine flavours, is now presenting a softer, lighter summer menu that is richer in vegetables.
This fine-tuning is not only about the change of season; it also reflects the top restaurant’s continuous development and its place at the forefront of Hungarian gastronomy, according to the restaurant’s statement. As they write, the chef felt it was time to introduce a fresher, more natural line as well, without compromising the restaurant’s elegance or its fine dining spirit.
“With the summer menu, I wanted to show a new side of myself. Our restaurant has so far been known for bold, masculine flavours, but now we have opened up towards lightness, playfulness and naturalness,” says Lendvai Levente.
An iconic starter here is the duck liver with Tokaji Aszú. During preparation, the texture of the duck liver becomes creamy and its flavour concentrated – the secret is that the liver is wrapped in cheesecloth, rolled up and matured for 12 hours. The dish is topped with a caramelised walnut tuile flavoured with cocoa powder and mild spices. The Tokaji Aszú jelly – seasoned with a blend of 5 warm spices, including star anise, cloves and cinnamon – is made by reducing 10 litres of Tokaji Aszú down to 5 litres.
At first glance, palóc beef goulash with confit potatoes, fresh green beans and dill sounds like an autumnal soup – but nothing could be further from the truth. This special beef main course is a reimagined version of the classic palóc goulash, with the emphasis on the deep, succulent flavour of beef cheek. The dish is built on beef cheek cooked for 23 hours and then seared hard, giving it a crisp exterior and a tender, juicy interior. The main element of the garnish is fondant potato, served with a creamy paprika jelly seasoned with a mildly spicy Tabasco and topped with mustard seeds.
Among the main courses, the Keszthely sturgeon with ordás cheese gnocchi and sparkling wine sauce stands out. This fish dish focuses on the premium quality of Hungarian sturgeon. It comes with rich, homely ordás and curd cheese gnocchi tossed with butternut squash. One of the highlights of the dish is the light, foamy sparkling wine butter sauce, finished with fresh parsley oil and chives. The seaside mood is heightened at serving by samphire and, on request, sturgeon caviar.
As for desserts, the new-wave somlói is a must: a classic dessert in modern dress, with walnuts, chocolate and vanilla. The plate is completed with golden raisin cream, candied walnuts and a silky chocolate sauce.
Source: Turizmus Online
